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Tensions are a common source of problems in sewing. Understanding how tensions work is essential for every sewing machine user. It is not as complicated as some believe, and not as simple as some might think.
Two threads are used on your sewing machine to form stitches. One from the top and one from the bobbin. The machine is designed to create a certain amount of resistance on the thread as it moves through the machine. This resistance is known as tension. When all is right, the stitch forms in the fabric without excess on top or bottom.
The upper tension system is much easier to see and understand even on sleek modern machines that hide much of the apparatus. The thread moves through some guides, through a tension assembly with tension discs, through the take up lever, and down through the eye of the needle. To adjust the tension, just turn the adjustment knob.
The lower thread system is even a little more mysterious than the upper thread system, but it is in many ways even more simple. The lower thread system may involve top loading bobbins, front loading bobbins, or even side loading bobbins. Older machines often used shuttles mounted underneath the machine.
While there are a variety of different designs, the essentials are the same. Thread is wound on a bobbin The bobbin is placed into a case or holder. (Older machines used shuttles the same way). The thread in the bobbin is drawn through a tension device and up to the top of the sewing platform.
It is important to take special care when threading and inserting your bobbin. Since, there are some many different sewing machine models, first use the right bobbin. It is amazing how many times, the sewing machine messes up just because it has the wrong bobbin in it.
Then, take a look at your bobbin. You should see thread evenly wound on the bobbin without any puckers, loops, or bumps on the edge of the winding. If the thread is not properly wound, pull it off and wind it correctly. Never use a poorly wound bobbin.
Next, follow the sewing machine manual exactly or have a professional sewing machine technician show you how to put the bobbin and its carrier into position. Failure to correctly insert the carrier or bobbin, will result in frustration. As you insert the bobbin, trail the thread under the tension spring according to the manufacturers instructions.
The fourth step, is to thread the bobbin tension. If you look closely, the thread goes under a small piece of metal which is actually the tension spring. This part is crucial. If the thread fails to slide under the tension spring, it will flop around, get tangled up, or appear on top of your fabric as puckers as you sew.
Tension on the bobbin thread can be adjusted with the small screw that you sew on the tension spring. Turn it right to tighten or left to loosen.
Of course, there are many kinds of bobbin carriers too. Top loading machines usually have carriers installed under the needle plate, and all you do is insert your bobbin in it. Front loading machines, usually have carriers that come out. You insert your bobbin, and put the carrier back.
Test the tension on removable carriers. Insert the bobbin, and train the thread back under the tension spring. Draw the thread through the carrier and make sure it flows smoothly with a gentle pull. Hold the thread and let the carrier and bobbin drop. If it falls quickly, tighten the tension screw. If it dangles, give it a little bounce. It should drop an inch or so. If it does not, loosen the tension screw.
Many machines have a drop in bobbin that fits into a bobbin carrier below the needle plate. Once the bobbin is placed in the carrier, the thread is drawn under a tension spring. The same gentle pull test used in the front loading bobbin can be used with the drop in bobbin, but it is a bit less precise. If you continue to experience difficulties with the bobbin tension, it may be adjusted by turning the small tension screw on the spring of the bobbin carrier.
Always be on the lookout for anything that might interfere with proper operation of the thread flow. Rough spots, burrs, lint, and dirt can cause big problems. Fix problems before you get frustrated. The bobbin tension should not have to be reset unless you significantly change the size or type of thread you are using.